Native American Jewelry

Jewelry

Silversmithing was introduced to the Navajo people in the early 19th century by a Mexican silversmith who taught the craft to Atsidi Chon. By the mid-19th century, Chon had mastered the art and introduced it to Lanyade, a Zuni friend. Prior to this time at the Zuni Pueblo, copper and brass were the only metals crafted, with incising and filing as the only design techniques. Chon introduced the technique of stamping with designs based on Mexican leather craft.

Because of this cross-cultural relationship, it is nearly impossible to tell the difference between early Navajo and Zuni silver jewelry. Early pieces include open-centered conchas, beads, buttons, and bowguards. By 1910 with increased availability of smaller turquoise stones and improved lapidary tools, the whole design of Zuni jewelry was oriented toward cluster and channel work, mosaics, and the display of gems.

One example of the evolving aesthetic, or the way the finished silver should look, is the degree of polish on the piece. Currently, silversmiths prefer a high polish, whereas silversmiths of 50 or 100 years past lacked the electric buffing wheel. The older fashion left some areas tarnished, or darkened, to enhance details.

Today, almost all silver is signed or marked, or the maker is identifiable. Look for the mark, and keep in mind that in New Mexico, it is illegal to proffer non-Indian made jewelry as Indian-made. A reputable dealer should be able to provide proof of authenticity in writing.

 

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